Summer 2025 Part 2🏞️San Dorsino Lorenzo

Kylie Caioni-Scheren
Oct 28
13 min read

🏞️ Main Destination 2: San Dorsino Lorenzo

On the way to Lago Molveno

After a few days of mountain air in Arabba, our journey continued towards Lago Molveno.

The route? Provincial roads to the left or provincial roads to the right to Bolzano, which is an adventure in itself. Curves, mountain ranges (via Passo Costalunga and the Rosengarten massif), sparkling lakes, charming villages, and the inevitable little orange speed cameras 😉 that kindly remind you that Italian villages like to be viewed slowly.

After Bolzano, we were allowed to take a quick sniff of the highway towards Trentino, before happily meandering along provincial roads again; straight roads seem to be forbidden territory here.

Final destination: San Lorenzo Dorsino, a picturesque village a stone's throw from the beautiful Lago Molveno, in the middle of the Trentino-Alto Adige region.

We thought: a week of chilling by the lake, a kind of ‘Lake Garda light’ without the crowds. The Instagram pictures promised sun, swimmers, and idyllic blue water.

The reality of Lago Molveno: idyllic blue water, endless hiking trails, a charming village, a wide range of outdoor activities, sun with occasional clouds, and water so cold that even the polar bears in Lapland would keep their hats on 🥶

On day 2, all three of us realized that Plan B was in order due to the combination of the cold water in the lake and Lanah's need to chill and swim. In addition, mom noticed that, given her injuries, energy level, and the adventurous week in Arabba, she also needed rest, relaxation, sun, and warmer swimming water.

So... plan B! Listening to our bodies and energy levels. Switching from “active explorers” to “zen mode with a view.”

🏘️Accommodation

Our base: Dolce Vita Ambiez B&B

In San Lorenzo Dorsino, a charming place with a view of the mountains, where the atmosphere is as warm as the cappuccino at breakfast. Located on the southeastern flanks of the Brenta Dolomites, at the foot of the Paganella, close to Lake Molveno, the area is part of the Adamello Brenta Nature Park.

The owner and her family are the Italian version of “mi casa es su casa”: warm, helpful, and genuinely interested. Our apartment was neat, spacious, with a lift that was just big enough for the large wheelchair + 2 people.

Breakfast? Typically Italian: a mountain of sweets, fresh coffee, and the feeling that the day can only start well☕🍰

Parking was a bit of an adventure. Our bus didn't exactly fit smoothly through the narrow alleys leading to the parking lot (8 spaces), even though the owner said it would fit easily. Understandable if you're used to it and, like the ‘average Italian’, see a car only as a means of transport that allows you to make situations fit.

Our experience? Beads of sweat, bated breath, and applause-worthy actions. We quickly decided to look for an alternative nearby.

We finally found peace (and space) at the little church, 100 meters away, in public parking spaces. Note: except on Sunday mornings during church services.

📍 Nearby attractions

The area around Lago Molveno and San Lorenzo Dorsino is a true natural paradise 🌿 – and surprisingly accessible with a wheelchair or adapted stroller, provided you know which turns to avoid.

The B&B had stacks of brochures, including stroller-proof routes, which is handy because they are usually wheelchair-friendly too. It seems that this is an ‘up-and-coming region’ and they want to promote it mainly to young families and nature lovers, and rightly so!

The owner even called the local tourist office and the nature park to check accessibility. Worth an extra point on the review score, right?

⛪San Lorenzo Dorsino itself feels like you've accidentally driven back in time a few decades (without a time machine, but with WiFi).

Quiet, authentic, and wonderfully cozy. A village so small and cozy that you've seen all the benches and all the nonnas within five minutes. The first day felt like we were parading past a jury bench—the nonnas approve of everything—but after day two, we received warm greetings and little smiles for Lanah's wheelchair moves.

Incidentally, the church bells were there before our alarm clock: at 7:00 a.m., we knew for sure that we were alive, every morning.

🌊Molveno

On the lake of the same name (864 m above sea level) is a truly beautiful village—clear water, mountain scenery, and a neatly laid out path around it for wheelchair users: half of it is great, the other half is... well, more for the daring with an off-road spirit (read: motorway).

What else can you find there?

Wide promenades with benches for pit stops
Accessible beach areas (pebble and gravel) where you can get almost to the water with a wheelchair (we used a sports wheelchair) 🏖️
Terraces at the same level – Limoncello Spritz with a view guaranteed. Cappuccinos after 11 a.m. are ‘not done’ in Italy, so we adapt ;) Local beer was also available; at the beach bar, the sign ‘Brand Beer from Wijlre’ was prominently displayed on the facade. As if we don't love that, haha.
Paragliding, canoe and SUP rental, mountain biking options, boat rental, alpine skiing in winter, etc. We rented an electric boat – Lanah's first boat trip! The wheelchair stayed ashore, but with her pillow on board, she was chilling like a princess. We didn't get any help getting on board, something to do with teenage holiday workers who aren't very alert and assertive in these situations. We took our time and it worked out fine in the end.
Old village center with car-free central squares, restaurants, and small tourist shops (not all accessible).
The campsite at Molveno is also highly recommended: right on the lake, beach, playground, swimming pools, and... swimming caps are mandatory. We cried with laughter. 🤿
TIP: The village center is small but manageable; some streets are steep, but there are plenty of flat areas towards the square. The restaurants around the village square are often willing to set up tables outside for more accessible seating (and a better view) or even lift the wheelchair to the upper terrace (provided it is not a heavy electric one, of course).

🐻Andalo – Andalo, a 20-minute drive from the B&B, is a bustling tourist mountain village with over 700 km of hiking trails. For families, there are special hiking trails that are also suitable for strollers. For the average hiker, there is a wide choice of beautiful day trips, and for experts, there are multi-day hut-to-hut hikes. This region is also a paradise for mountain bikers, and in winter, it is perfect for alpine skiing.

Belpark, Spormaggiore (Andalo) – a small animal park on a hill.

The park itself is outdated but neat, small-scale, surrounded by nature, and nice for a morning walk. A little tip: don't park downstairs at the ‘Parking’ sign.

We did, and got a free 30-minute mountain climb with 10 hairpin bends. At the top, there turned out to be three disabled parking spaces... p*tvr*d*kkie!

Limburg-Italian temperament? Fully activated, it took 50 counts before we could go to the ticket office.

But hey, last night's pizza and beer: burned off! 🍕🔥

🧗Arco, just a 35-minute drive from the B&B.

Sounds long? In Trentino, you can easily end up driving for half an hour, due to the many provincial roads and the lack of highways. That's a shame, of course, given the beautiful mountains. The highway actually only runs through the center of Alto Adige.

Arco is a paradise for climbers, but don't panic: even if you prefer to keep both feet on the ground, Arco is a wonderful place. Due to the microclimate, it is slightly warmer than elsewhere, and the atmosphere is wonderfully relaxed. Temperature in San Lorenzo Dorsino 24 degrees, temperature in Arco 28 degrees.

Perfect for those who want the warmth and the typical ‘Lago di Garda atmosphere’ without the crowds. The weekly market is similar to those in other villages on Lake Garda: clothing, gadgets, clothing, clothing, food.

We love the atmosphere in this town and similar villages where ‘extreme sports’ predominate. In our opinion, these are always more ‘relaxed, chill, go-with-the-flow’ and therefore offer more shops with outdoor clothing, terraces where no one is in a hurry, gelaterias galore, and good food. We love it :)

And for wheelchair users? The historic center has a number of cobbled alleys, and many cafés and shops are surprisingly accessible (with some charming Italian improvisation). The promenade along the Sarca River is flat, wide, and ideal for a leisurely ride with views of climbers in the distance.

🌞Riva del Garda is about 40-45 minutes from the B&B. There are several routes you can take to get there, such as the route along Lago di Tenno, which is wonderful for a stopover and a refreshing dip. Please note: from the parking lot, you will need to follow a forest path. This is fine for an off-road (or transport) wheelchair but not suitable for a large electric wheelchair.

This town is bustling: water sports enthusiasts on the lake, strolling tourists, cyclists pretending they are riding the Giro. Fortunately, the center is largely car-free, but parking is a bit of an issue... But otherwise, it is easily accessible for wheelchair users: flat streets, good sidewalks, colorful buildings, and, for a number of years now, a beach on the lake adjacent to the park with a paved path through it and many cafes with accessible terraces.

Several towns on Lake Garda can also be reached by water taxi (large boat), which is also wheelchair-friendly!

In the summer, this town is flooded with tourists, something that is also promoted, of course. This did not prevent us from saying ‘hello’ to our beloved lake. You can come here to visit the lake, enjoy a few hours of water fun, rent a boat or pedal boat, stroll through the small shops (many of which are accessible but crammed with goods) and relax on the terrace.

TIP:On the way back? Take a different route and you will see other beautiful villages and mountains, or you might spontaneously come across a winegrower, unknown to us. Perfetto!

🍨Lazise, a 1.5-hour drive from the B&B.

This charming town on the southeast coast of Lake Garda is our “home on the lake.” The old city walls make you feel like you've stepped into a medieval movie. Fortunately, we now know all the shortcuts and parking spots.

Here, it's all about la dolce vita: strolling along the quay (the promenade is flat and wide), enjoying the view and the glistening water, browsing the little shops and deciding whether to have pistachio or stracciatella ice cream (have both. After all, you only live once!).

After that, Lanah had one wish: to go swimming. So we headed for the beach at a well-known campsite! From the parking lot next to the city gate, you can walk or roll along a side road straight into the water (note that buses are not allowed to park here).

There's plenty of choice, because every campsite claims a piece of beach in this ‘mini-cove’ of the lake. We aimed for the first grassy spot at Camping du Parc – nostalgia for us.

The universe was kind to us: just as we arrived, three people got up from their sunbeds, making room for us! Of course, there was a fee – dolce vita is a paid hobby for a reason 😉

After swimming, we strolled through the town, enjoyed a tasty snack, and ended the day with an evening walk along the water.

For us, Lazise always feels like coming home: unwinding, enjoying ourselves as a threesome, and completely ‘grounding’ ourselves.

🍋Food/Drink

Traveling through northern Italy is like eating at an Italian nonna's house: you always get too much, no one listens when you say “no,” and even the obstacles are charming.

Molveno

Polenta with stewed meat or mushrooms.
Ciuìga del Banale – local delicacy, protected by Slow Food, sausage with turnip.
Fresh mountain cheese or sausage (salami) with a glass of red wine; ask at the bar which wine.
Enjoyed a nice meal at Bar Spiaggia, simple lunch, space created for the wheelchair, great prices.
Had pizza at Taverna La Botte in Molveno, a super cute restaurant, good food, downside: they seem to want to clear the table as quickly as possible.
Sports bar in the center, great for an aperitif and watching the sport of the day with the locals. We watched the F1 race with Lanah there on a Sunday afternoon.

Riva and Arco, What you must try:

Risotto al limone – light, fresh, and delicious in warm weather.
Gelato artigianale from the promenade.
Aperitif at one of the many bars, delicious with a serving of olives, chips, etc.

Lazise,What you must try:

Gem's, restaurant along the main road. Known for its rotisserie chicken and home-brewed beer.
Gelato at Cremeria di Lazise.
A glass of Bardolino rosé at sunset on the promenade.
Restaurant on the beach at Camping du Parc, slightly more expensive but excellent food on the beach for lunch.

From the mountains near San Lorenzo Dorsino to the sun-drenched promenade of Lazise, everywhere you go you will experience the same attitude to life: simplicity, taste, hospitality, and no rush.

And if you get stuck on a gravel path or steep street, there is (almost) always an Italian who will pop up with a smile and say, “Aspetta, io aiuto!” (Wait, I'll help you!).

Italy may not be perfectly flat, but it is perfect in everything that matters: good food, warm people, and wine that makes you forget everything.

After all, the love of us Limburg bon vivants goes (largely) through the stomach ;)

🅿️Parking and On the Road

Parking: usually free or inexpensive at B&Bs and small villages. Parking in Molveno is easy at one of the designated outdoor or street parking spaces, or if you want to park close to the pool/beach, opposite the campsite. At first, we thought this parking lot had a height restriction, but the B&B owner insisted that it was possible. As it turned out, when we reported to the ticket office with the wheelchair bus, the friendly gentleman moved the height restriction pole aside. Never seen that before, but ideal! Parking in Lazise: just outside the village center, there is a large public parking lot with no height restrictions. Coming from Bardolino, at the busy roundabout at Lazise, turn left up the hill. If you show your European parking card at the ticket office, you may also be able to park for free. Parking in Arco: Approaching Arco from the north, there is a large public car park on the right, next to the large rock (or ‘mega-boebel’ as Lanah called it). There are a few disabled parking spaces here. Parking in Riva: Parking close to the city center is almost impossible in high season. You'll have to circle around or look for parking spaces outside the center. The walking distance is then on average 20 minutes along the beach promenade or along the main road.
Speed cameras: Yes, here too. Orange, small, and always strategically placed 😅
Tip: Take your time and enjoy the ride — in the Dolomites and around Lake Garda, being on the road is at least as beautiful as the destination itself.
Winding provincial roads? Drive carefully, don't brake too hard, don't take the bends too fast. This is very unpleasant for wheelchair users with little or no trunk balance.
Always bring something to drink and a snack for the road.
We always bring our swimming gear with us, in case we feel like a refreshing dip.
A change of clothes and a cardigan and long pants for Lanah. She gets cold more quickly than someone who can walk.

Return trip overnight stay: Nuremberg

Every adventure comes to an end, and so did this one. We weren't sure where we would spend the night on our way home. We decided to let it depend on our progress along the way because, well, it was peak season and we're not used to that.

Just before the border crossing, we decided to fill up in Austria because diesel was cheaper there than in Germany. This meant we could cross the border ‘the long way round’, without any traffic jams. A nice bonus was the German bakery we came across on the provincial road, much better than a sandwich at the gas station ;)

To our surprise, this bakery had a ramp, look... perfect!

Everything went smoothly and fine until we reached the bottom of southern Germany, and it looked like we were going to spend the night near Frankfurt, but... around Munich and Ingolstadt, traffic was moving very slowly. We reached a point where we had been in the car for nine hours and only then saw the sign for Nuremberg, so we decided that was our limit, also considering Lanah's posture and muscles.

A quick Google search and voilà, there was Hotel Forsthaus in Fürth.

A good hotel, worth mentioning! This hotel also had a swimming pool and spa facilities, but unfortunately we didn't arrive until late in the afternoon. A nice shower, dinner, and sleep. Furthermore: spacious rooms, air conditioning, wooded surroundings close to the highway, a beer garden, a delicious restaurant, and a top-notch breakfast buffet.

Reflection:

At first, the region around Lago Molveno wasn't what we expected, but looking back, we can say that this is also a beautiful part of Italy if you're a mountain lover like us. We're grateful that we got to experience it.

And honestly, what's a vacation without Plan B?!

Plan B meant that we combined the Molveno region with Lake Garda (the old familiar). It was exactly what we needed that week.

All it took was listening to our feelings and, above all, to each other, weighing up the options, making compromises, and always getting the most out of everything.

As for Lake Garda, the caveat remains: it is extremely busy in high season. This makes it extra challenging for families with wheelchair users. Simple things like getting a spot on the terrace with a wheelchair can be a challenge. In addition, it often means walking in single file through the narrow streets, where many tourists unfortunately don't see the wheelchair and not every tourist is equally friendly when it comes to making room, so extra caution is required.

If you ask us, we prefer the June and September vibe in this region ;)

💡 Tips

Plan a maximum of two activities per day. Two = Hyrox event intensive 🏋️‍♂️.
Are multiple wheelchairs available? Bring them along! This will give you flexibility in different, possibly unpredictable situations.
Bring a pump and spare tires for the wheelchairs.
We often use the Stabilo (vacuum seat cushion) for Lanah in ‘all-enclosed’ patio chairs.
Bring an extra small cushion, as this can sometimes be useful for creating a different posture in the wheelchair.
Lanah still uses a ‘floater’, as she is still lightweight and small in stature. We recently purchased a life jacket with extra neck support, which is also nice for her to float in.
Beach = sand. Sand = forever. In your socks. In your charger. Between the wheels.
Bring a small can and a brush for point 7.
Take your time to settle down on a terrace or in a restaurant, don't worry about what others might think. It just takes a little thought and planning with wheelchairs.
Leave your expectations at home. Go with the flow.
Weather conditions in Trentino change every 10 km, so always check the weather forecast for your destination.
Check wheelchair accessibility via B&B, tourist office, or brochures in advance.
Don't forget to smile. Really. Sometimes it's chaos, but it's your chaos.
See tips from summer 2025 part 1.

📸 Instagram vs reality

📸 Instagram: “Look at us smiling for the camera!”
🤯 Reality: Tripping twice, looking for a wheelchair parking space, changing places three times, lots of turned heads, lost sunglasses, etc.
📸 Instagram: “Together on the beach.”
🤯 Reality: a whole operation beforehand: whether or not to take the wheelchair to the water's edge, hoisting Lanah into her swimsuit, cold feet in the water, the occasional pebble under your foot, transferring Lanah from one person to another, putting on a swim ring... and only then can you really enjoy yourself.

❤️ Finally – the truth

Vacationing with a wheelchair and a toddler is... an adventure. It's planning and letting go. It's lifting and laughing. It's shouting “come back!” 73 times and proclaiming 50 times that souvenirs are pretty much the same everywhere. With moments that are naturally confrontational for both Lanah and us. You want to give your child the world, but in a wheelchair, this quickly becomes much more limited. Some things are simply not possible, or some people are simply not willing to help. This is also the truth.

Even though a vacation is physically more tiring for us than being at home (and that is already very intensive), we always think afterwards, “This was magical.”

And yes, we would do it again in a heartbeat.

The mountains always watch us. Silent, motionless. They observe us, study us, speak to us, listen to us, love us.